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January 25 星星变奏曲One of my favorite poems in high school, by 江河. Just came across my mind as I sat here typing on an undeveloped piece. So here it is. Cheers.
如果大地的每个角落都充满了光明 谁还需要星星,谁还会 在夜里凝望 寻找遥远的安慰 谁不愿意 每天 都是一首诗 每个字都是一颗星 像蜜蜂在心头颤动 谁不愿意,有一个柔软的晚上 柔软得像一片湖 萤火虫和星星在睡莲丛中游动 谁不喜欢春天 鸟落满枝头 像星星落满天空 闪闪烁烁的声音从远方飘来 一团团白丁香朦朦胧胧 如果大地每个角落都充满了光明 谁还需要星星,谁还会 在寒冷中寂寞地燃烧 寻求星星点点的希望 谁愿意 一年又一年 总写苦难的诗 每一首是一群颤抖的星星 像冰雪覆盖心头 谁愿意,看着夜晚冻僵 僵硬得像一片土地 风吹落一颗又一颗瘦小的星 谁不喜欢飘动的旗子 喜欢火 涌出金黄的星星 在天上的星星疲倦的时候 - 升起 照耀太阳照不到的地方 January 22 Lost...for nowJust lost my journal - with which I had used to log my everyday at work and elsewhere since last August and on which I'd always depended since 2003 - in the chilly night walk back and couldn't find it whatsoever after half an hour's desperate search alone in the dark. Alas, let's look ahead.
Leaving for the airport to go to Hainan in less than seven hours - will miss a most important conference and a very valuable exam opportunity, but let it be. May things come as they should after I get back, and hope I'll handle them well. January 20 他山之石,可以攻玉。他山之X,可以攻甚?Mr. Barboza - this your way of summarizing your out-of-this-world Pulitzer story and responding to the charges you threw on the fish farmers of an entire country based on alleged research in a small town? Well, thanks. So much for media professionalism. I hope Ding (if he really said those words) was responding to your ORIGINAL article, not its heavily-edited two-pager Chinese translation that your comrades put up on the NYT website, along with the MP3 file of its readup that sounded like an obituary more than anything else. Such a waste of the voice, don't you think? And by the way, media always "are" or "were", not "is" and "was" - unless Yale taught you differently. Of course, maybe you were too held up in putting us in context - "the state-controlled" blah blah blah - but still, what's not right is not right. Next time, remember to check your work before sending it off. Okay? It's for your own good, David.
China Says Its Seafood Is Now Safer and Better January 16 And to win the right to start it all over again"...We will have to start where one always has to start, from below."
- Subcomandante Insurgente Marcos, Zapatista Army for National Liberation January 04 纽约时报恶意报道导致福建鳗农陷入困境张秀国很清楚,唠叨是没用的。同理,办公室里的片刻休息也不会带来啥积极影响。可他就是扭不过这个弯来。他半坐在沙发上,双手在空中猛扇,声音大得像是敲锣,眼睛直愣愣地瞪着那扇紧闭的门。
门外有七十口室内鱼池。那是张家五兄弟的全部,也是秀生养鳗场的核心。上百万尾鳗鱼生长在这18亩鱼池里,养它们的是十口从地下百米左右取水的井。鳗鱼每天吃两顿饭,也洗两回澡(或者按老张的话讲,鳗场每天都要排两回污)。至于那些残存的鳗粪和废水,则会通过管道,被引入邻近的排污沟里进行光合降解,直到入海。
跟不少同行一样,秀生养鳗场是地方烤鳗场的原料供应基地。在与烤鳗场签订协议后,日本就会成为这些池中之鱼的最终目的地。但2007年7月间国际媒体对“纸包子事件”的恶意炒作,改变了福清水产出口的命运。出口订单突然之间成为了多数烤鳗场的奢望,而鳗农们则很快发现,他们的产品无处可卖。
在风险面前,单干已久的张家五兄弟决定合养。但是几个月后,鳗鱼市场依旧每况愈下。张秀国曾想过就此收手,但已经从事这个行业十几年的他已经不能说放手就放手了 — “我们五个兄弟,一家借五家,你算算这要借多少钱?”他表示,如果时间能倒回自己刚开始养鳗的1993年,他“就肯定不养了”。
《纽约时报》:“中国在毒水中养鱼”
“我们现在是进退两难。那些外国记者太没道德了 –像我们这样合在一起搞,一发财,整个家族都发达;一亏损,所有亲戚全完蛋。我们怎么可能拿自己鳗鱼的质量开玩笑啊?”
对于老张的困惑,这个县级市的120万居民,尤其是官员、协会代表和鳗农,无不感同身受。
福清早在明代就获得了“侨乡”的美誉。而1987年,农民杨宗龙于赴日考察后在此建立全国首家养鳗场的创举,则揭开了当地鳗鱼养殖加工业大发展的序幕。在杨氏成功经验的鼓舞下,成千上万的农民开始养鳗。时至今日,福清的鳗产量已独占全国的三成强。
然而,发展并不是没有代价的。“在2003年前,我们用药很频繁,”50岁的渔溪镇书田村曙光养鳗场的大股东刘后俊告诉记者。
“但我们养鳗的那套都是从日本学来的,”他解释道。在1996年跟弟弟刘后斌一起创立曙光之前,两人共同的留日经历为其创业奠定了基础。
2003年以来,日趋严格的国家政策使非法用药无处可寻。2006年成立的福清鳗鱼协会更是担起了统一购买和配送渔药的责任。但是,外媒的恶意报道仍在继续。
去年12月15日,《纽约时报》发表了一篇2400余字、中译文本与录音齐备的长文。文章借其所谓在福清实地采访而得的证据,指责中国“在毒水中养鱼” 。
该文声称:“为确保鱼的成活,水产养殖者用混入非法兽药的饲料喂鱼,使含有毒性、致癌性药残的水产品进入市场,威胁着消费者的健康安全。”
福清:“这里的水完全没有问题”
“养鳗过程中,主要的污染物是自然形成的氮、磷和鳗粪,”福清环保局副局长谢何杰说。“养鳗场越多,对水质的环境压力也自然就越大……但这些污染物都是能够自然降解的……在这种情况下,即便渔场再多,恐怕也不能说水就会变得‘有毒’。”
“更何况,水中的氮、磷含量对养鳗不产生任何影响,”海洋与渔业局副局长陈任平说。“而说到用药,现在谁还用禁药,谁就肯定亏本。普通渔民根本不敢,也没地方买非法兽药。”
福清的养鳗场多集中于其西部的渔溪和上迳两镇。在此,养鳗的水源来自于山泉水、地下水和几个分散的小型水库。
“不管是在这两个镇里,还是在任何别的地方,鳗鱼对水质的要求都是很高的,”工作在监测一线的市农业局执法大队队长庄政说。“再说了,毒水里怎么可能养得活鱼呢?”
而在张秀国看来,他家场里95%的鳗种都是欧洲鳗的事实,足以说明其水质的安全可靠。“跟日本鳗比,欧洲鳗得要更好的水才能养得活。”
刘后斌表示同意。“我们的水都能养得活欧洲鳗,你说这水质还能差得了?”
养鳗可不简单啊,刘后俊说。“谁说它门槛低的?非但不低,养鳗的水质是最高的,因为它技术含量高。鳗苗刚引进来的时候,跟火柴棍一样细。你知道我们费了多少心思?养鳗鱼的水必须是恒温28摄氏度,上下不能超过0.5度。多少回多少次,我们两兄弟昼夜轮流查水温。”
对渔民们来讲,水质从来不成问题 – 刘氏兄弟“都是吃这个水长大的”,后俊从来都用自家井水泡茶,因为“自来水泡茶不好喝”;而张家人所在的柳瘄村更是曾经的海滩。秀国说,这里清澈而稍咸的地下水“是老祖宗留下的宝”,“养出来的鳗鱼更好吃”。
在他们的养鳗场以北不远,步履岭横贯东西,将福清大多数的水产养殖户与当地的主要水源 – 龙河流域 – 分割开来。《纽约时报》的文章说,龙河流域的水“已为造纸厂和屠宰场倾泻的垃圾所影响”。在这条河的上游是福清最大的,据该文称其水“甚至不适与人体接触”的东张水库。超过一万人居住在水库边的东张镇上。
“福清历来缺乏水资源。即便是今天,我市的人均水资源量也还不到我国中部和东部地区的一半,”谢何杰说。“所以,我们才在1958年建起了东张水库,为解决福清水资源贫乏现象做出了贡献。而现在,环保总局的检测结果显示,我们这座已经有50年历史的老库也只是轻度富营养化,比全国湖泊平均的中度富营养化水平都要好。”
东张水库管理局局长陈天赐强调说,水库在1999年开展的一次规模空前的排污行动,已经彻底解决了其水质曾经存在的些许问题。“我们的水质在三四类水之间,”他说。“但是必须指出的是,环保总局从2005年起公布实施了新的,类似‘一票否决’式的水质监测标准。根据该标准,湖泊和水库的水质是由其最差的一个指标决定的。我们的大多数指标都是一类,但少数几项指标,比如氮、磷含量,是在三四类间。”
“2007年3月5日是枯水期,水本来就少,死亡的藻类也比较多。那天所做的检测,的确查出我们的氮含量比四类水要差一点。但我们的水,不论作为饮用水还是养殖水,都是完全没有问题的。”
“重视环保是一种自觉的行动,”2006年在湖南退休,后又被返聘为东张水库总工程师的江惠龙说:“我们自己老婆孩子都喝这的水。我们能不重视吗?”
为保护水质不惜血本
为了保护水质,东张镇的居民付出了惊人的牺牲。为水库建设创造空间的大规模搬迁行动在此地开始时,镇上三星村村民周元桂才三岁。他今年已经54岁了。75%的东张居民迁居外地。周家先是搬到福州,但不久就搬回三星,因为在市里找不到稳定的收入来源。
“我们在河的上游,不能发展工业。所以我只能养猪。但2004年起,市里连续下发了一系列通知,要分批拆除所有的养猪场 – 这样能更好地保护水嘛。但现在连猪都养不了了。大家的猪场都拆了,我的到2006年11月也拆了,还拿了4万6千8百块补偿款。”
福清在2006-07年间共拆除了472家养猪场;周元桂的猪舍只是其中一家。政府为此投入了6千6百万元。“村民们开始不理解,”谢何杰说。“但现在他们也逐渐认识到了水质保护的重要性。”
尽管如此,在猪场被拆后,许多村民还是只剩下了种田这一条老路。这是对地方经济的巨大打击。但官员们认识到,在水质保护这个艰巨的长期目标面前,暂时的经济停滞算不了什么。
不少东张人不得不外出谋生。2006年12月,王金松成为三星村倒数第二个猪场被拆的农民。不久,他和儿子就去别处做生意了。从他猪场原址开车只需一刻钟,就可以到达最近的施工地点:福清的第二家污水处理厂。在龙河边上,工人们正忙着接起长长的排污管。处理厂将在年内建成。到时候,在东张水库下游的福清最后两家废纸浆造纸厂均将关闭。
福清水产养殖业前景堪忧
“据说我们是美国2007年拒收中国进口水产品记录之首,截至11月,43项产品全部含有非法药残,”福清国检局副局长陈辉说:“这些人是不是把拒收和自动扣留搞混了?”
刚刚过去的2007年,是迄今为止福清鳗农们最难捱的一段时光。“只有很少的养鳗户能拿到银行贷款,因为日本鳗鱼市场的价格波动大,风险大,坏账多,农民又没什么像样的抵押物,”福清鳗鱼协会主任刘明龙说。
“再这样下去,整个行业就垮掉了,”协会副秘书长林春银说。
如果行业垮掉,一切将会怎样?刘后俊已经买不起他心仪的小汽车了;或许很快,张秀国18岁的宝贝儿子就无力接受高等教育,只能继续从事他父亲开始后悔进入的养鳗业了。而像他们一样在鳗鱼养殖和加工战线上奋斗着的一万多名福清农民,又当如何呢?
二月份就该投苗了,但刘后俊说:“价格不好,没人投 – 因为没钱。”没钱,没出口,也没有成熟的国内市场 – 换句话说,鳗农们能做的少之又少。就像张秀国调侃的那样:“我们干嘛还坚持养?为全球消费者做贡献呗。” Slippery charges land eel farmers in fishy netZhang Xiuguo has his fingers crossed. "I just can't take it off my mind," he says, throwing his hands in the air and staring bluntly at the closed doors. Outside those doors is a cluster of 70 ponds, all indoors, in which Xiuguo and his four brothers have invested all they had. The ponds are part of their farm, spread over more than 18 mu (1.2 hectares), complete with 10 wells about 100-m deep and the more than 1 million eels. Then there's the enclosure where eel excreta is degraded organically before it flows into the sea.
Almost every eel in the Zhangs' farm is meant for the Japanese market. And that's true about most of the others in business in Fuqing in Fujian Province, though the fish are first processed in a local roast eel factory. But a majority of eel exports from Fuqing (and in Zhang's case, all) has been halted since July 2007, when the media scooped a fake report saying some baozi (steam buns) sold in Beijing had cardboard fillings.
The Zhang brothers merged their ponds later that month to cope with the crisis. But that didn't help. In fact, the situation has worsened. Xiuguo thought about giving it all up. But how could he? "We've invested too much for too long to give it up. Each of us five brothers has borrowed money from about ten other families - you do the math."
"We're in a dilemma. Our families can prosper or perish because of these eels. So why should we risk the quality of our eels?" Xiuguo's anxiety is shared widely in the county-level city of 1.2 million people. Here, eel farmers, officials and business associations alike are trying desperately, and justifiably, to counter damaging Western media reports and price fluctuations to rescue the industry.
The coastal city of Fuqing has been known as qiaoxiang, or hometown of emigrants, since the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). But for the last 20 years it's known more as the highest eel-producing city. Yang Zonglong set up the country's first eel farm in Fuqing with Japanese eels in 1987. He ventured into the business after studying in Japan, during which he realized the importance of eels in Japanese cuisine. Many people in Fuqing followed Yang, and today the city produces more than 30 percent of China's eels.
Those achievements, however, came with a price. "Before 2003, we used to use chemicals quite frequently," says 50-year-old Liu Houjun, the largest stakeholder in a 20-mu eel farm at Shutian village in Yuxi town. He and younger brother Liu Houbin studied eel breeding in Japan before returning home to set up shop in 1996.
But after the government imposed strict regulations in 2003, the use of all banned chemicals stopped. Now only chemicals bought from the Fuqing eel association can be used in the farms. Unfortunately, even before groundless rumors on the continuing illegal use of chemicals had died down came the equally baseless charge of poor water quality.
A December 15 New York Times report alleged the water in which Fuqing eels are farmed has become "toxic" because of excessive growth of aqua-farms. The farmers mix illegal chemicals and pesticides in fish feed, which further pollutes the water and threatens consumers' health. When the water is too contaminated, eel farmers simply move elsewhere - to inland cities such as Sanming, to "start the cycle all over again", said the report.
Most of Fuqing's eel farms are in the western townships of Yuxi and Shangjing and rely on wells and a limited number of small reservoirs for water. "Eels are extremely vulnerable to bad water," says Zhuang Zheng, a first-line agriculture inspector. "And water cannot turn 'toxic' just because there are too many eel farms in the area."
The fact that 95 percent of Xiuguo's eels are European sub-species, he says, is enough to prove the quality of water in his farm is top grade. "You need top quality water to breed European eels," he says. Houbin agrees: "You can breed European eels in this water. So how can our water quality be bad?"
Eel farming, Houjun says, is not easy business. "The technology part is crucial. Eel fingerlings have to be kept in a body of water with an even temperature of 28 C, plus or minus 0.5 C. I can't recall how many times my brother and I've taken turns at night to check the water temperature in the ponds. Considering the length of time and amount of effort that I've put in, I think I treat the eels like my children."
The quality of water has never been a concern for the Lius, who have lived with the wells all their lives. They even prefer water drawn from the wells to tap water for tea, just like the Zhangs, whose native Liucu village was once seashore and where slightly salty underground water is still considered ideal for tasty roast eel.
To the north of Yuxi and Shangjing are the Bul hills, which separate most of Fuqing fish farms from the Long River, the city's major waterway, which The New York Times report alleged "has been degraded by waste dumped by paper factories and slaughterhouses". The Dongzhang Reservoir, the largest in Fuqing, which is allegedly "unfit for even contact with the human body", is in the upper reaches of the river, where thousands of people have been living for centuries. The town shares the reservoir's name.
"Water scarcity in Fuqing is as old as history. Even today the city's per capita water resources is less than half of what it is in the country's mid-eastern regions," says Xie Hejie, deputy chief of the city's environment protection bureau. "The reservoir was built in 1958 to regulate water supply. And even today, according to the State Environment Protection Administration (SEPA), the old reservoir only suffers from 'mild eutrophication' compared to 'medium eutrophication' in many of the country's lakes."
Dongzhang Reservoir chief Chen Tianci says the reservoir water has been problem-free since 1999, when most of the accumulated silt was cleared and the murky water drained. "Our water quality is between level 3 and 4," Chen says. "But you ought to know that in 2005, SEPA began a new monitoring scheme to determine the quality of a reservoir's water according to its worst test result. Most of our indicators are level 1, but a few, such as nitrogen and phosphorus proportions, could be level 3 and 4."
"A test on March 5, 2007, when the water level was at its lowest and dead algae were floating, did find the water quality to be below level 4 for nitrogen. But it's absolutely safe to drink after treatment, or to use it for pisciculture and other purposes," he says.
"Environment protection is all about consciousness," says Jiang Huilong, who came out of retirement in Hunan Province two years ago to assume the post of Dongzhang Reservoir chief engineer. "Our wives and kids drink this same water. So we have to care."
Dongzhang residents such as 54-year-old farmer Zhou Yuangui have sacrificed a lot for the reservoir. Zhou was only three years old when a massive resettlement project began in Dongzhang to create space for the reservoir, forcing 75 percent of the population to resettle elsewhere. Zhou's parents moved to Fujian's capital of Fuzhou, but soon they returned to Sanxing village in Dongzhang for want of a stable source of income.
"The authorities had stopped people from any industrial activity in the area so I began raising pigs," Zhou says. "But in 2004, city officials ordered that all pig farms be demolished to better protect the source of water. I had to tear down mine in November 2006, for which the authorities gave me 46,800 yuan ($6,415)."
Zhou's was among the 472 pig farms to be razed in 2006 and 2007, which cost the government 66 million yuan ($9 million). "The pig farmers weren't pleased at first," says Xie. "But now they realize how important water protection is."
The demolition of pig farms forced many villagers out of business. It was a blow to the local economy, but the authorities knew water protection was more important than the temporary setbacks.
Many people moved out in search of better livelihood. Farmer Wang Jinsong was one of them after his farm was razed in December 2006. It takes a 15-minute drive from what was once his farm to reach the nearest construction site: Fuqing's second sewage treatment plant. Workers are linking pipes by the riverside for the plant, which will be ready this year. And by that time, the city's last two recycling paper mills would have been closed down.
"Some say we were at the top of the US' 2007 list for rejected shipments of seafood from China, with 43 rejections in November alone," says Chen Hui, deputy head of Fuqing's inspection and quarantine bureau. "I think they confuse rejection with holding up of consignments."
"We've recorded 81 shipments, or 900 tons of eels, to the US in 2007, and another 5,000 tons to Japan. Not a single consignment was rejected 266 shipments, or over 4,000 tons of shrimps, were sent to the US, too, and only one was rejected. Do you call every consignment 'detained' by US Customs a rejection?"
Last year was by far the worst eel farmers in Fuqing have gone through. "Very few can get financial support from banks because frequent price fluctuations in the Japanese eel market have raised the risks and because fish farmers don't have proper collaterals," says Fuqing eel association chief Liu Minglong. "If it goes on like this, the entire industry will collapse," says his deputy Lin Chunyin.
That would mean a lot more for eel farmers such as Houjun, who can no longer afford a car, or Xiuguo, whose 18-year-old son "could not get higher education and has to remain an eel farmer all his life".
In less than a month, fingerlings should be released in the ponds. But, says Houjun, "Nobody's doing it - because you need money for that, and we don't have any."
No money, no export - and an underdeveloped domestic market means the farmers can't do much to turn things around. As Xiuguo says jokingly: "At the end of the day, why are we still farming eels? To give our best to consumers." January 03 And here's to you, Mr. David BarbozaFishing in 'troubled waters' leads to big losses
After 14 years of eel farming, Zhang Xiuguo last week thought of calling it quits.
Exports of aquatic products in the coastal county of Fuqing, Fujian - which exported eel worth $53.83 million in 2006 - have stuttered since last July, when "foreign press rumors about China's food safety escalated", Zhang, 44, said.
A recent New York Times report "sealed the fate of the crippled industry", said Liu Minglong, head of the city's eel association.
On December 15, the paper ran a 2,400-word piece, packed with Chinese translation in both audio and text, accusing the country of "farming fish in toxic waters", based on what it claimed were field interviews in the county.
"Farmers have coped with the toxic waters by mixing illegal veterinary drugs and pesticides into fish feed, which helps keep their stocks alive yet leaves poisonous and carcinogenic residues in seafood..." the report said.
Eel farmers, including Zhang, who read the Chinese version, said the accusation is "totally groundless".
"The major pollutants in eel breeding are nitrogen, phosphorus and excrements which are found naturally," explained Xie Hejie, deputy chief of Fuqing's environment protection bureau. "When you have more fish farms, the environmental pressure on water quality will certainly rise.
"But all these pollutants can be naturally degraded... I wouldn't say that water becomes 'toxic' under these conditions."
Strict regulations since 2003 have made drug use illegal, added Zhang. The Fuqing eel association, established in 2006, is responsible for the purchase and delivery of approved drugs. The county produces about 30 percent of the country's eels.
"Whoever uses illegal drugs is bound to lose money. The ordinary fish farmer has neither the incentive nor the place to buy them," said Chen Renping, deputy head of the local marine and fisheries bureau.
The country's top fisheries watchdog agreed.
"Strict controls have been set on the aquatic raising environment and aquatic food quality. A vast majority of our aquatic products pass safety standards and consumers can set their minds at rest," Ding Xiaoming, an official with the fisheries bureau affiliated to the Ministry of Agriculture, told China Daily.
Ding said some media reports are "irresponsible and mislead the public".
"It's common sense that fish cannot be raised in toxic water, as breeding and growth depend on good conditions including water source, quality, depth and the surrounding environment," Ding said.
The government has implemented four regulations on water quality for the fisheries industry, shutting down ponds that failed to meet water quality standards, and banning fishing in polluted regions.
The ministry tightly supervises fisheries inputs including drugs, and has strict controls on drug residues.
Inspection centers have been set up in 31 provinces and municipalities for aquatic food quality supervision, said Ding.
Special inspections of drug residues carried out by the ministry last year covered 20 major fisheries provinces and municipalities.
For the fourth straight year, more than 97 percent of aquatic products met standards during random sample tests.
Citing figures from the ministry and also the country's top food and product quality watchdog, Ding said that at least 95 percent of Chinese aquatic products met safety standards and up to 98 percent of fish exports passed inspections.
But Ding acknowledged that water in some regions was polluted and that some profit-driven fish farmers "misbehaved", using excessive or forbidden drugs in breeding.
"It will take us some time to correct their behavior," Ding said. "But we oppose any irresponsible and distorted reporting that misleads the public."
Ministry figures show that the total volume and value of the country's aquatic food exports during the first 11 months last year registered the lowest rise year-on-year since 1999. "Look at us. We did nothing wrong - but who is to pay for all the damage?" Zhang asked. |
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